Some say that surfing is for daredevils. You will never know how big the waves will be once you are in the middle of the sea. That is why surfers need to learn how to surf big waves.
A surfer’s guts will surely take him to greater heights. However, in order to overcome great waves, he also needs to prepare himself mentally and physically.
Prep your Mind
Big waves are discouraging not just to beginners but also to longtime surfers. Those who wish to ride big waves need to believe that they can come out unscathed.
They have to claim in their mind that they can ride overwhelming waves and have the time of their life. It is important for them to commit fully to taking on huge waves.
Having a positive mindset will boost the confidence of a surfer. It will push him to make a brave move on the ocean.
Ready your Body
The physical state of a surfer must be in tiptop shape before he takes on big waves. Aside from spending long hours on swimming, he must also devote time for cardiovascular workouts.
Brisk walking, jogging, or running on the beach can help a lot. Plyometric exercises may be beneficial because they strengthen muscle power.
Holding your Breath
Not all attempts on riding big waves are successful. Surfers should therefore be prepared to hold their breath underwater for a longer time.
A surfer can practice holding his breath when lying in bed or while in the shower. He can also do free diving to condition his lungs.
Having the Right Equipment
A surfer who is raring to ride big waves must use equipment suitable for huge waves. A short board will not do because it may spin out or break.
A long board is more appropriate because it has greater length. A long board with a pintail provides additional stability.
Approaching the Big Wave
Once you are in the open sea, you have to scrutinize the situation meticulously. You have to analyze the waves and the environment.
Monitor the number of waves in a set and the time gaps between sets. It’s also important to determine where you should paddle out and where your exit point will be.
It is advisable for you not take an enormous wave right away. You may first ride a wave that is as tall as your last highest wave.
You can build up from the height of that wave gradually. Take things in stride because rushing to catch a giant wave may be disastrous.
Presence of Mind
As you set yourself to paddle out, make sure that you are relaxed. Inhale and exhale deeply several times to calm yourself down.
Think of words of encouragement to push yourself. Review your paddle points and exit points. In addition, go through your survival tactics one more time.
Keep in mind the things that you must do should you lose your board. Remember to protect your head from being hit by the board or coming into contact with a reef.
Stop and Assess
While it is important that you are fearless as you surf, you also need to know when to stop. Be aware of your own limits.
The adrenalin that a huge wave gives is insurmountable, but always consider your safety first above everything else.
If you are unsuccessful in riding big waves, you should assess why you did not make it. Take a step back and do better preparations for your next attempt.
Having Some Company
Having company can also boost your self-confidence. Your family or friends can cheer you on as you take on the challenge of riding a big wave.
It is crucial to have friends or family in close proximity whenever you surf big waves. This will allow them to rescue you should you go underwater.
You, your friends and your family members should know the basics of cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR). This will allow you to help each other in case there is no lifeguard on duty.
Taking on big waves is such a daunting task for surfers. However, with ample knowledge on how to surf big waves, you can do it. If you have remarks or questions, just leave them at the comments section.
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